Nakajima Ki-43 "Hayabusa" (Oscar)

Thursday, 20 April 2017

Japanese Aircraft Online Model Contest 004 - MICHAEL FURRY

1/48 Nichimo Ki-43-1 "Hayabusa" (Oscar)
The Nichimo Oscar has been around since the 1970's and in my opinion is the best Ki-43-1 kit to date. While out of production, they are quite easy to find on the model show circuit. I made some minor improvements to the cockpit, this biggest is cutting the front of the floor off and flipping this piece upside down to raise the cockpit floor, otherwise it is quite deep. I also replaced the kits oversized instrument panels with a resin copy from Hasegawa Ki-43-1. The kit is one of the best fitting kits I have built and this lends to rather quick construction. Since the kit has wonderful exterior detailing, it lends itself quite nicely to a bare metal finish. There is a slight pebbly texture to the parts that some may want to polish off, I chose not to. I painted the model in a few light coats of Floquil Old Silver. After letting this dry for a few days I began to buff and polish the paint with pencil graphite, SNJ aluminum buffing powder, and brown chalk pastel. I plan to have the kit completed for the May contest deadline.
 
Michael Furry - Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, USA















Update #2
The polishing and buffing continues. I systematically work my way around the model working on a small area at a time. Masking over polished areas will leave a slight distortion to the polished and buffed areas. Simply re-buffing those areas with a small amount of graphite will restore the finish.  Masking the clear parts provided a bit of a challenge since the corners are rounded. I still need to paint the rear of the canopy (I did not pay close attention when masking). Hopefully by the end of the week I can get the markings painted and start working on the bottom of the model. 

 
 
 
 

6 comments:

Michael Thurow said...

Hi Michael,

I see you prepared an opening on the left leading edge - for a landing light? Be aware that the -I didn't have one.

Otherwise your model looks great so far.

Michael Thurow

D. Chouinard said...

Really like the weathered aluminum effect! I wouldn't mind trying the technique you are using. (Being an artist, I have plenty of pencils, thus plenty of graphite!)Can't wait to see the finished product!

Michael Furry said...

Regarding the landing light slot, it is molded in the kit, I didn't open it. The model is a production transition aircraft. The pilots welcome the landing light since it helps make the aircraft more visible when operating near the airbase and reduces the potential for mid-air collisions.

Michael Furry

Arawasi said...

Looking very very good. I wouldn't mind a few clearer photos of the cockpit to see what color/paint you used and the underside. Did you go for aotake for the wheel wells or unpainted? Will it have iff stripes? If yes, what color/paint do you plan to use?
And finally what markings?

Michael Furry said...

I made an attempt to take photos of the cockpit but was unsuccessful. The small opening combined with the fact that I am not very good at taking photos with an I-phone made it challenging. I will make a few more attempts to get some better cockpit photos. I painted the cockpit in aotake. I am not 100% sure this is correct, but I wanted to try a different painting technique which is as follows: paint cockpit and associated parts in neutral gray then heavily dry brush with chrome silver, most of the gray gets covered except for corners. This gives a hazing metal finish. I then sprayed heavily thinned aotake(Model Master Enamel) in random cloudy patterns. This gives the impression of some areas being more heavily coated than others. I used black water colors as wash in all corners and crevices and finally dry brushed again with chrome silver. I have tried various techniques to simulate aotake and I think the way described above is the most pleasing(again my opinion only) I painted the wheel wells as described above but only painted the landing gear leg slot with thinned Model Master aotake. This gives a two color effect in the wheel wells and breaks up the aluminum finish. My reason for painting the wheel wells this way is simply: artistic license. I have the markings planned out and cut, but cannot remember the Sentai, I will need to check my reference. According to the profile, the A/C will not have IFF stripes. The next update I plan to have some photos of the bottom of the model and the markings painted. I hope this information is helpful. Feel free to ask questions and thank you for the interest.

Mike

Panagiotis Koubetsos said...

Very good work so far although the riveting effect should be subtler..I like it a lot.