Friday, 20 October 2017

Nakajima Ki-43 "Hayabusa", Utsunomiya Army School

Three photo today from a vintage, December 1944, magazine featuring a Nakajima Ki-43 "Hayabusa" standing next to a Nakajima Ki-44 "Shoki" and a Mitsubishi Ki-46. The "Hayabusa" has the engine mount area panels removed offering a rare view of this area but note also the propeller and the spinner area. All the aircraft most unusually belong to the Utsunomiya Army School even though their markings are not visible in the photos.
Small quiz: what model is the "Hayabusa" in the photo?

Tuesday, 17 October 2017

Kawasaki Ki-61 "Hien" by Dan Salamone

Attached are images from my recently completed 1/48 Hasegawa Ki-61I Hei. The natural metal finish is airbrushed Floquil Old Silver, the dark green mottle is Vallejo acrylics. Once cured the Floquil was wet sanded with automotive grade sandpaper. The Vallejo acrylics have relatively poor adhesion IMO, the scuffing/wear is from lightly rubbing with a soft cotton cloth.

Once you find the proper air pressure and paint consistency, the painting of the mottle goes rather well (but is time consuming).
All the other paints used were Gunze lacquers. Started this model in 2005 and just finished a few months ago!
- Dan Salamone -

Sunday, 15 October 2017

Artist - Vladimir Martinicky (6)

The latest work by Vladimir features a beautiful Kawasaki Ki-61 IIkai, of the 56th Sentai.

Friday, 13 October 2017

Modelling videos pt. 4

Another built of the Tamiya Kawasaki Ki-61 "Hien" (Tony), this time by "Scale-a-ton".
Here's the link to the original UTube video:
Check also the four much longer videos of his with more step-by-step details of the built.
Personally I think he is very brave to do the camo free hand, taking a big risk to spoil the whole model but the result is really pretty nice. My only objection would be the wrong IFF stripes (check here) common mistake made by modelers when they build their "Hien". A very nice looking model in every other respect.
As far as I know there are 3-4 techniques to replicate the camouflage pattern on the "Hien". One is to do the basic outline of the blotches by brush and then fill in the color by airbrush. Another, as seen by the previous Tamiya official video, is to do it by masking the wings. The free hand is another one but which one is your favorite or do you prefer a different way?

Michael Thurow
I have two ways to 'design' the blotches on JAAF aircraft: (1) I draw outlines by hand onto the basic colour with a weak soft carbon pencil (or with a plotting pencil after applying a layer of glossy clear). (2) I scan a good pattern from a 4-view drawing, print it to scale and copy it with a pencil onto the model surface via the good old carbon paper. Both methods allow errors to be easily removed with an eraser or wiped off with a wet cloth. Then I fill the forms with green colour of various densities either with hard or soft demarcation lines depending on the original camouflage.
Note that the blotches were usually avoiding the hinomarus (since they were factory applied) but were overlapped by command stripes etc. (field applied).
The result of my approach can be seen on my Toryu model - fuselage as per (1), wings as per (2).

Michael Furry
I would free hand the camouflage pattern. Mottling on Luftwaffe and Italian subjects is accomplished in a similar fashion. The key's to the entire process are finding the correct paint consistency and air pressure. I would practice and experiment with thinning ratios and air pressure before attempting on the model.
 From what I noticed, the builder is using Tamiya paint, but does not discuss thinning ratios or air pressure. I have used Testors Model Mater enamels for well over two decades and have figured out the best thinning ratio and air pressure, but in many cases small adjustments must be made. One problem with Testors enamels is that once they are thinned past a certain ratio, they will not spray properly. I have not experimented much with Tamiya or any of the other acrylic lacquers, but have heard that they can be thinned to an extreme consistency and still spray with excellent coverage.
Model making is a skill; the more you try and experiment, the better you are at the skill.

Wednesday, 11 October 2017

Aichi D3A1 "Val"

A photo from a vintage publication today of a Aichi D3A1 "Val" getting refuelled. A rather rare photo showing the canopy fully retracted. Note the dirty parts of the top wing surface where the crew members are stepping on. An early aircraft with Pearl Harbor era paint job.


Sunday, 8 October 2017

Modelling videos pt. 3

An interesting video by "Andy's Hobby Headquarters" featuring the built of a Kawasaki Ki-61 "Hien" (Tony) model by Tamiya.
Check the video description to see who built what.
There are many different techniques and paints to replicate the NMF so often seen on IJAAF aircraft. Which method and paint has worked best for you? Alclad is the most often mentioned paint series but it is not always available in model shops. How about more readily available paints like Tamiya?

Michael Furry
I have always used Floquil old silver, bright silver, and platinum mist. These paints are easy to use and can be buffed with toothpaste, buffing powders, Rub n' Buff, pencil graphite or pastel chalk. Floquil silvers can be masked over without any problems and do not require any type of base coat or primer.
 Like most metal finishes, the plastic will need a light polishing using a cotton t-shirt or a well worn piece of scotch bright. Unfortunately, Floquil paints are no longer available but do show up from time to time at model shows or on trading boards.
I have not tried any other type of metal paint finish and my Floquil paint supply is limited, so I will need to find an alternative at some point in the future. I am curious to see what other modelers recommend or have tried.

Dan Salamone
Like what Michael said, Floquil enamels used to be my go to paints for NMF. I tried Alclad awhile ago and wasn't as pleased with the result. I just invested in AK Interactive Xtreme metal enamels but have yet to try them. There are videos on You Tube showing these paints and how quickly they dry and how you can mask over them. Seems like they may be the closest to the now discontinued Floquil enamels....

D. Chouinard
I have yet to do a good NMF, however once I have my modeling table back up, I may have a go at it.
Nice model in the video, but two things stood out to me: The prop stripes were way too far down the blades,and the there should be part of the IFF stripe color on the landing gear doors.
I did like the overall finish and the use of different shades of Alclad. Many ways of getting the metal effect....

Wednesday, 4 October 2017

Mitsubishi G4M "Hamaki" (Betty)

Two photos today from a vintage, May 1943, publication featuring a Navy Type 1 attack bomber or Mitsubishi G4M1 "Hamaki" (Betty) getting ready for the next mission somewhere in the South Pacific.

Sunday, 1 October 2017

Modelling videos pt. 2

Two videos by Frédéric Mertès showing various techniques building a Nakajima Ki-84 "Hayate" (Frank) in 1/32. It seems that the hairspray technique works well with large scales. But how about in 1/72. Also, how about the painted hinomaru again in small scales?

Here's the link for the first video:


And here's the link for the second video:

Michael Furry
Regarding the hairspray technique, using this method is like anything else in model making, practice, practice practice. I have experimented with this technique a few times and it works quite well, but it can be overdone. I noticed Frederic used silver as the base coat. The silver base coat may be technically accurate, but is not as visually pleasing and often gives the impression of being "over weathered". I often use a darker color when simulating chips and wear as it is more visually pleasing to the eye and is not as apparent as straight silver.
Painting markings works in any scale. The key to painting markings is using very thin paint at low pressure and gradually build up the color, otherwise you can end up with have paint ridges or bleed through. The more color you add the darker the markings and the less color you add, the lighter the markings. You do not need a large quantity of paint to get good coverage. I started to paint markings on models years ago and only use decals when absolutely necessary.
I use masks as well for painting hinomarus. I use frisket film to make a mask and a slightly modified drawing compass - the pencil end is substituted by a needle whose end has been previously modified with a grinding wheel to obtain a cutting edge. Or, you may use a small blade (by X-Acto?) and adapt it to the compass - of course the blade has to be perfectly sharp.
Using a compass allows to obtain a disc (mask) of very small diameter, which is especially necessary in 1/72 scale.
After that I agree that a bit of practice will give very satisfying results.....
Michael Furry
I run a small business with a long time friend producing paint stencils and masks. We use a CAD program to design the images and a plotter cutter to cut the designs. We prefer to use Frisket film because it is clear and positioning the stencil is much easier. We have also successfully designed and cut masks using Tamiya masking tape. Most of our customers prefer Frisket Film since it is clear and quite easy to position. If anyone is interested in paint masks or have questions, please feel free to contact me at:
Barby jean
All serious modelers own a Silhouette Portrait nowadays, and without knowing how to use special tools like CAD programs, I do my own markings even if sometimes it is tricky. The hairspray technic works in any scale and, as stated above demands practice like any technic in modeling. I use Oramask and I am plenty satisfied with this product, which is the same one used by Montex. Best regards, Jean.